Alban's Blog

Paris: City of Love and the Arts

Actually I wanted to write this text on my way from Paris to Cologne in the train, but sitting together in the TGV (train grand vitesse = French superfast train) next to my good friend and pianist Steven Osborne prohibited me to do anything else but talking to him about life, love and music – which means this text had to wait until my next journey, which was obviously not the  drive in a rent-a-car from Cologne to Berlin the night after our concert in Siegburg, but now, a day later, on my flight from Berlin via Frankfurt to Boston (long live the online-checkin: I am sitting in the exit-row with endless leg-space – no seat in front of me!)..

In Paris Steven and me had probably given our best concert yet, wonderful program with a great improvisatory sense to it (we did the Stücke im Volkston by Schumann, Piazzolla’s Tango and the Sonatas by Alkan and Shostakovich). Unlike the concert in Antwerp where in my opinion we didn’t have the same confidence to be as free and spontaneous, in Paris’ Theatre de la Ville we had discussed our “game-plan” to explore a greater freedom in this repertoire which can easily become a bit measured (especially the Alkan can get stale when being performed to strictly).

It felt like being one of these story-tellers of the middle-ages who sit near the city’s walls with their curious audience around them, following carefully each word because otherwise they would miss the sense of the story. The Theatre de la Ville is located vis-a-vis the Chatelet, right at the Seine, in the heart of Paris, and while it looks all pompous and beautiful from the outside, the hall itself is modern, a bit like a University lecture-hall with the audience sitting in a half-circle around the stage, very close to the artists. Every row is substantially higher than the other one, so from each seat one has the perfect view over the stage – maybe that’s the reason why people love to come there (each time I have played there, the room was packed, and I think it seats at least 600 people, but this is a pure estimate).

But it might also have to do with the director of the hall, an old friend of mine, George Gara; he doesn’t care much about the “big names” but faithfully brings in younger and lesser known artists, most of whom he had kind of “tested” in his festival “Juventus” in Cambrai; this is a very different festival to what you might be used to normally: Each year he invites a couple of young, promising talents, let’s say in average four or five, the so-called “Laureats” who present themselves with a little recital – but they are also encouraged to play Chambermusic with the Laureats from earlier years who come back frequently like to family reunions. I am ashamed that I haven’t been back in quite a while (I am always torn in between having fun and enjoying life as a musician and spending some important time at home with wife and child…), because this group of Juventus-musicians is very inspiring to work with and to listen to; well, some of them became quite big stars like counter tenor Andreas Scholl, flutist Emmanuel Pahud or pianists Pjotr Anderszewski and Alexandre Tharaud among others.

Somehow “his” audience must trust him, because they always show up in large numbers, and maybe I shouldn’t be writing this here, but I am definitely no star in France – hardly ever playing there, not because I wouldn’t want to, but because there is a big number of excellent French cellists who really want to play there, and since I am not a very pushy person, I only go to this beautiful country once a year 🙁

Why am I sad about this? I have always been very francophil, learned a bit of French in school, lost my virginity to a lovely French flautist whom I dated for three years, starting with the fall of the wall Nov 9 1989 – gosh, 19 years, time flies, this is crazy! So whenever I am in Paris I start feeling incredibly nostalgic, dreaming of these days when I had no idea in which direction my life would be taking me. It is such a clichée, but it is the city of love, at least for me, with all these charming little cafés and brasseries, these romantic bridges crossing the Seine and all that flair no other city seems to have. Through this flute player I also got drawn heavily into visual arts, visiting often my favorite museum, the Musee d’Orsay, and feeling so stupid and ignorant next to her, who knew so much about it; somehow in my childhood I didn’t learn to appreciate the arts, so it needed nothing less than Paris to convert me.

And the food, you are asking? Mh, have never been the greatest fan of the haute-cuisine, since I like to eat; I have to have something on my plate, and afterwards I would like to have something left in my purse, so no, I don’t do haute-cuisine. Also I don’t have an elaborate taste with wine (to be truthful, I might be able to taste the difference between a Bordeaux and a Chianti, but I can’t remember it – so if you do a wine-tasting with me, I’d enjoy it immensely but would make the biggest fool of myself since I can’t put a name on a single wine, and I am not exaggerating), but I do love their cheese. I could kill for it, and it was one of the reasons why I left New York (I lived there from 1994-2001). If I don’t get enough cheese per week, I am really miserable. What else – the patisseries, yes, excellent, love them, but the normal food? Sorry for saying it, but I seem to be very unlucky with restaurants in Paris (except this time, we did find a nice little place very near the Chatelet, where we had the funniest waitress and quite delicious scallops) – Brussels for example seems to have a higher density of good restaurants.

But look who is talking: a self-declared gourmand, who loves to eat but can’t tell the difference between Chianti and Bordeaux. I should just shut up and close the computer, but my flight hasn’t arrived yet, and I am too lazy to get up and take my book out of my backpack. The difference between gourmand and gourmet? Maybe I am wrong, but I would say, a gourmet knows and loves to eat great food, and a gourmand loves to eat, period. On my first night in Paris, having traveled all day from Berlin to Weimar, where I had been asked to be the patron over a wonderful project (“every child an instrument” – very ambitious, because it wants to give every single child in Weimar a chance to learn an instrument, and since I do believe that for our society it is crucial to raise the next generation not only playing Nintendo and Playstation, but also being able to express themselves artistically, I happily “gave my name”, travelled there, talked and played a bit at the official introduction of the project), back to Berlin’s Schönefeld Airport (missing two train connections, almost missing the flight, again!) for the direct flight to Paris Orly – I got to my hotel at 11:20 pm, and no restaurant in the neighbourhood was open, so I had to go to – Mcdonalds, can you believe that? First time in Paris for a long time, and I have a Big Mac, how sad does it get?!

Oh, we are landing in Boston, I’d better get ready for that difficult task, off to another Dvorak in one of the most beautiful halls in the world with one of great orchestras, what an honour, can’t wait, and yes, I will report how it’s going here…

Comments

  • Thomas Walter

    Hi Alban,

    I’m sure you heard that from other people, but I personally must say again that it is really unbelievable what private stuff you tell in your blog… Almost shocking 😛

    Reply
  • Bill Clarke

    Hi Alban
    I am an Englishman living in Paris with my German born wife, a sort of European Union! We attend concerts at the Theatre de la Ville regularly and thought the concert last Saturday you gave with Steven was one of the most enjoyable we have heard for a long time. Clearly by the reception you had from the full hall we were not alone in that opinion. The intensity of the rythmic clapping at the end of the first half almost seemed to be demanding an encore even at that early stage. We certainly hope you return to Paris soon. Incidentally I think the theatre seats nearly 1,000. Once in a bored moment during an interval I tried to count the seats! I don’t know how you find time to write your interesting and varied blogs, keep it up, we enjoy them.

    Best wishes

    Bill and Barbara Clarke.

    Reply
  • Tinger Do

    Hi Alban – the private stuff shocking ??! with all respect to excellent musicians – what I find shocking is that jetting around like maniacs.. one cellist I happen to appreciate very much is doing Ludwigshafen -Rome-Naples-Cologne-Palermo -Berlin-Ludwigshafen-Hannover from 8/11 to 17/11 in a row….. s c a r y…..!!! every move visible on the net – and the music….??!!

    Reply
  • Michael Wakoff

    Hi Alban,

    I’m traveling from Ithaca, N.Y. to hear you play the Dvorak with the Boston Symphony on Saturday. Been waiting over a year to hear you live. Wondering if you will be conducting any master classes in Boston. I’m a newbie cellist and would love to attend one. Enjoy Boston!

    Reply
  • Alban

    Hi Barbara and Bill, thanks for coming to and enjoying the concert, and thanks for counting seats! Wow, 1000 people attend a recital of two non-stars, that is quite amazing! That how it should be, but unfortunately I see the tendency that people tend to go more and more to events and big names, not for the music as they seem to do in the Theatre de la Ville.

    Hi Tinger, yes, the jetting around looks crazy, but it isn’t, because the day has sooo many hours, and traveling is so relaxing these days that it is actually more stressful sitting at home and not playing or traveling. Well, I am exaggerating a bit, I like being home, but the joy of playing outplays by far the bit of stress of being on the road. Also it is not so bad playing a couple of concerts with one orchestra, since that allows you to really settle in one hotel room and feel at home…

    Hi Michael,
    I’ll give my best on Saturday since you are coming extra from so far! No, no masterclass, I am sorry – there might be a private lesson you are happy to attend, but otherwise nothing set up. Would have liked though – so maybe you have connection and can set something up for Sunday morning? I am not leaving back home until the afternoon…
    Enjoy Boston and hopefully the Dvorak as well,

    best wishes to everybody,

    Alban

    Reply
  • Michael Wakoff

    Hi Alban,

    Didn’t check your blog until just now. I wasn’t sure if I understood you correctly. Are you are offering to give me a private lesson on Sunday morning?! If so, that’s very kind of you. I find the idea thrilling and scary. I would be very self-conscious playing for you–I’m a 56-year-old who is now a book 5 Suzuki player. Not the level of student you are used to. Anyways, I have no idea of how to work out the details. So I think it won’t happen this time. Thanks for the very surprising offer. I’ll try to say hello after the concert on Saturday. If you have any other ideas, I’ll check the blog before I leave very early Fri. am for Boston.

    Reply
  • Yao

    Hi Alban,

    I just had the pleasure of hearing you play Dvorak’s Cello Concerto earlier this evening. I’ve always wanted to hear this piece live, and your playing definitely did it justice. “Bravo!” again and viel glueck on Saturday’s concert!

    Reply
  • Susie

    Hi,

    I used to play a little piano and horn in high school, and I was lucky enough to get some tickets from my instructor to be able to attend a variety of symphony concerts. However, I have never seen anyone play with as much finesse and charisma as you. I really loved how beautifully you played Dvorak tonight in Boston (and he’s already one of my favorite composers)! It is very exciting and inspiring to see such passion in artists. It was truly a memorable experience – thanks so much!

    Reply
  • Alban

    Glad you liked it, Yao – what an incredible piece, isn’t it? I was thinking that actually it is completely outrageous, that the cellist get the applause; it should be Dvorak who gets applauded, because the work is so well written, it’s not even funny!

    Hi Michael, no, I didn’t mean a private lesson, but in case you had connections if you could set up a masterclass – I know, far too short-notice, but sometimes people know people, and then all over the sudden one can ge something done, even on short notice. And you are right, I have absolutely no experience teaching people who are more or less in the beginning stages. I did teach beginngers on the piano when I was 16 years old, but never on the cello, so maybe it wouldn’t be so interesting for you at the end anyway.

    Thanks for writing, best wishes,
    Alban

    Reply
  • Michelle

    Hello Alban,

    Congratulations on your amazing performance tonight!!! I was so touched by your playing and interpretaion of Dvorak Cello Concerto.

    I still cannot forget your Boston debut of Schumann Cello Concerto as well as your master class at BU three year ago. They are very inspiring. I wish you can come to Boston often.

    Bravo! Enjoy your stay in Boston!

    Best,
    Michelle ^^

    Reply

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